Photographs Of Salvinorin Crystals @ SALVIA-COMMUNITY.net
 

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post May 14 2003, 17:55
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If you would like to see over 100 pictures of Salvinorin crystals join this group and go to the photo files: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Salvinorin

Edit: I have recently put my photographs of salvinorin crystals at a new URL which offers far larger resolutions: http://www.imageevent.com/sphere

Der Beitrag wurde bearbeitet von Sphere am Jan 30 2006, 05:02 Uhr.
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post May 14 2003, 17:58
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Bild: http://www.salvia-community.net/images/salviacrystals/post-20-1052883842.jpg

Salvinorin Crystals

Der Beitrag wurde bearbeitet von Sphere am Feb 14 2005, 09:00 Uhr.
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post May 14 2003, 18:00
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Someone just PM'd me welcoming me here, I don't understand your language well enough to be able to navigate here to send a PM back, I tried, but it failed. Thank you for your welcome, but having so much difficulty understanding your language I won't be spending much time here but I did want to post these documents and pics.

Der Beitrag wurde bearbeitet von Sphere am May 14 2003, 18:12 Uhr.
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post May 14 2003, 18:06
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How to grow your own Salvinorin crystals:

Methods to Salvinorin Crystallization:

1. Crystalline precipitation in cooling solvents: Dissolve as much near pure salvinorin powder as you can into 151 proof Everclear Ethanol Alcohol (25% water) warmed to 130-140 degrees F. and then wait for it to cool to see if crystals appear (191 proof Ethanol containing only 5% water might work better). Sometimes I have to re-heat a vial of Salvinorin and Ethanol several times to at or just below boiling before they might grow when cooling. If they are going to appear they should be there within an hour or two. Each time I re-heat a vial containing salvinorin dissolved into 151 proof Everclear Alcohol I loose some of the Salvinorin and crystals don't always grow, but they usually show up on the fourth try.

2. Crystalline deposits from solvent evaporation: Dissolving high purity salvinorin into Acetone and allowing the solvent to slowly evaporate at room temperature so that it evaporates very slowly will sometimes produce large crystal formations over a period of a few days to a week, but not always. I have grown crystals by evaporating Acetone fairly quickly in either an oven at 120 degrees f (just an ounce of solvent) or by having a fan blow air across an ounce of salvinorin saturated Acetone, but the crystals usually do not form as large as they do when the evaporation occurs slowly. Also, if you have not removed enough of the chlorophyll waxes the crystals will be hard to see, so try to remove as much of it as you reasonably can if your going to try to grow crystals. The extract should be better than 90-95% free of Chlorophyll impurity if trying to grow crystals otherwise the waxy impurities will hide them from view or stick to the surfaces of the crystalline structures, although if the evaporation container is both small and deep enough like some spice bowls are the Chlorophyll in the solvent usually deposits high up on the sides of the glass as the fluid level evaporates down, by the time the solvent level gets near the bottom of the glass where crystals start to precipitate out of the fluid, most of the Chlorophyll is already out of the solvent.

3. Isolation of crystals from dried extract using Naphtha: Through trial and error extraction research I was surprised to find that the dark waxy extract from a 99% Isopropanol extraction of Salvia divinorum is loaded with small crystals which are formed within the dark waxy Chlorophyll compounds as the solvent evaporates. The following explains how to isolate them out of dried extract but will only work if you have removed as much of the tannin contaminate as you can from the extraction solvent first. The way I do this is by letting the extraction solvent sit undisturbed for 12-24 hours to allow enough time for the tannin to settle out of the fluid as a fine sediment. Once the tannin has settled pour the extraction fluid into another container for evaporation, leaving the tannin behind. Next, the extraction solvent is completely evaporated leaving a dry waxy extract behind. Once free of any hint of extraction solvent and completely dry, pour in a few ounces of pure Naphtha and scrape every bit of the extract into the Naphtha, including all films which may have formed on the sides of the evaporation container. Completely dissolve every bit of the extract into the fluid until all of the clumps are worked out of it. Once your finished working all of the clumps out of the extract it is very important to leave the container of Naphtha alone to sit still for at least a half hour or more to allow enough time for the fine salvinorin particulates stirred up into the Naphtha to settle to the bottom of the container. After the extraction solids have settled you can then pour the Naphtha off of the extract in the bottom and then add more clean Naphtha back to the container to wash the extract through again, waiting a half hour or more each time. Keep washing the extract with Naphtha until it will no longer take on much more color and has become a light tinted translucent green.

After it's obvious that Naphtha has become ineffective removing additional Chlorophyll and unable to take on more color with each additional wash of the extract, pour off all of the Naphtha and completely dry the extract of any hint of Naphtha. Next, pour in an ounce or more of water into your container of extract and stir for a couple of minutes, allow time for the particles to settle to the bottom of the glass and pour the water off, adding more water to the extract and stirring again. If tannin is present in the extract the water will become a yellow to brown tint, but if using a cup or more of water at a time small amounts of tannin being dissolved out of the extract might be so diluted by that large of an amount of water to be unable to see any change of color to know if its being removed, because of this I like to work with only an ounce of water at a time to be able to know when all of the tannin has been completely removed and I can stop washing with water. Once you are done removing tannin with water completely dry the extract of all moisture and place all of the dried extract into a small two inch diameter spice bowl, or even a small shot glass or something of similar size. Next, pour in enough fresh Naphtha into the glass of extract so that there is about a half inch of Naphtha on top of the extract and briskly stir for about a minute with a spoon, then place the glass or bowl into an electric oven set to about 120 degrees F. with its door cracked open a couple of inches and evaporate all of the Naphtha out of the glass. Keep the small container of Naphtha as far away from the heating elements as possible because there is potential for fire. When using this technique by leaving the glass or bowl completely undisturbed in a warm oven while the Naphtha is evaporating off the extract, the heavier salvinorin crystals will all fall to the bottom of the glass while the lighter Chlorophyll impurity forms an upper crust on top. Once all of the Naphtha has been completely evaporated out of your extract you can freeze the glass to cause the top layer of wax to stiffen up enough to be able to easily peel the crust off of the top to expose nothing but golden colored to light green high purity sand-like salvinorin crystals in the bottom of your glass. They might not seem like crystals unless seen under magnification, but they are.

Note: I stumbled upon method three as a complete surprise when I was experimenting with water extractions of leaf for an hour in boiling hot water, then removing the leaf and evaporating the water off all the way down to dry tannin which was then extracted using 99% IPA to recover the salvinorin lost to the water, about 50%. I then removed the tannin from the IPA through settling and after evaporation cleaned the extract with Naphtha as well as I could. After drying the Naphtha cleaned extract I then did a water of the powder just to be sure I had removed all of the tannin contaminates and then after pouring the water off dried the extract. As an added measure, just to make sure the extract was clean enough I added about an ounce of Naphtha to it and stirred the powder into the solvent to see if it would take on any more color, which it didn't, so instead of pouring the Naphtha off I just put it into an oven set to 120 F. to evaporate and was later surprised to find nothing but crystals under a thin crust of Chlorophyll. These crystals could not have formed within the Naphtha itself because salvinorin is insoluble to Naphtha, so the crystals had to have come strait out of the extract itself, having formed when the 99% Isopropanol was being evaporated down to a dry extract. Prior seeing this, I didn't know that the dark Chlorophyll wax deposited upon evaporation of the extraction solvent had crystals in it and as far as I know neither did anyone else. No one seems to be very interested in using this new method yet, but in my opinion it is the easiest and most efficient way of obtaining high purity salvinorin that there is.

Warning! The above method of evaporating any amount of Naphtha in an electric oven could cause a fire or worse. I only post this for informational purposes. It worked for me without problems but it might not work for you without causing a fire!


Pictures from method one:

I grew the crystals in the pictures below by dissolving 900 milligrams of refined salvinorin powder (light green color) into 100 ml of hot 140 degree F. 151 proof Everclear drinking Alcohol (Ethanol) and then set aside for two hours at room temperature each time to see if crystals formed. I had to go through three cycles of heating and cooling before these beautiful crystals appeared. The first three times through only a cloud appeared composed of extremely small crystals not visible to the eye except as a cloud. On the fourth heating I came back two hours later and found these beautiful large crystals had formed. When heating your Alcohol thoroughly shake or mix the salvinorin powder into the Alcohol to dissolve as much as possible. Keep adding salvinorin to the hot fluid until I will no longer dissolve any more and has a few specks of solid salvinorin in the bottom which won't completely dissolve to indicate that you have fully saturated the hot Alcohol. When the Ethanol cools back down to 20 degrees C. sometimes salvinorin crystals will precipitate out of the fluid because the Alcohol cannot hold nearly as much salvinorin when cooled down to room temperature. Just leave it alone and let it cool down to room temperature setting on a shelf, nothing special needed. I have used 99% Isopropanol to grow crystals this way too, but they are always much smaller than when using Ethanol. Acetone won't form crystals at all, Methanol will sometimes form larger crystals than Ethanol, but hasn't been as reliable for me compared to 151 proof Everclear Alcohol which usually takes three or four cycles of re-heating the 100 ml jar before nice crystals form. I have been able to grow crystals in 151 proof Ethanol the same way using a much smaller 30 ml vial of hot Alcohol with as little as 100 mg of Salvinorin producing the same size of crystals.

Bild: http://www.digitalgoo.com/public/forums/1/uploads/post-12-1104635014.jpg Bild: http://www.digitalgoo.com/public/forums/1/uploads/post-12-1104635290.jpg
These crystals were sent in for analysis and were found to exceed 99.5% purity using HPLC without any other peaks showing.


Pictures from method two

The following two pictures are of some very nice white salvinorin crystals which formed through slow evaporation of Acetone at room temperature. These crystals were produce by adding white salvinorin powder into a small bowl full of Acetone warmed to a temperature of about 130 degrees F. then stirring in as much salvinorin-A powder that could be dissolved into it and setting it aside for a week. When I came back I found these crystals. Sometimes crystals will grow, other times none will form at all. The second picture was taken close up using a zoom stereoscope set to 45X magnification. The light brown colored material at the base of the crystals is tannin sediment that was not removed from the salvinorin powder like I should have done by mixing water into the extract to dissolve any remaining tannin contaminate into it and then pouring the water off to remove it. Of course dried before adding to the hot Acetone.

Bild: http://www.digitalgoo.com/public/forums/1/uploads/post-12-1104635566.jpg Bild: http://www.digitalgoo.com/public/forums/1/uploads/post-12-1104635450.jpg


Pictures from method three:

The following pictures are salvinorin crystals obtained strait out of dried Chlorophyll waxes from a 99% IPA extraction. The photograph on the left was taken on macro within about three inches of the bottom of a regular drinking glass used to evaporate Naphtha cleaned extract that had about a half inch of clean Naphtha stirred in just before placing the glass into an oven for evaporation. The smooth layer you see is a waxy crust of Chlorophyll waxes which formed on top of the salvinorin crystals below it. I tore a portion of the wax off the top to show the crystals underneath. The photograph on the right was taken with a zoom stereoscope set to 30X magnification.

Bild: http://www.digitalgoo.com/public/forums/1/uploads/post-12-1108347960.jpg Bild: http://www.digitalgoo.com/public/forums/1/uploads/post-12-1108348055.jpg

If you would like to see over 100 pictures of Salvinorin crystals join this group and go to the photo files: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Salvinorin

Der Beitrag wurde bearbeitet von Sphere am Feb 14 2005, 08:59 Uhr.
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post May 14 2003, 18:38
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... ohmy.gif
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post May 14 2003, 20:57
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wo sind all die alten user:(?
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post May 14 2003, 21:11
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*sprachlos*
verarbeitung des gerader gelesenem textes wird gestartet.... *g*
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post May 15 2003, 11:14
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...really nice crystals! smile.gif

I'm gonna try it too sometime, I hope I'll be able
to grow some crystals, even if not that clean as yours are.

I'll then post my experiences here too, and when I find the time,
I'm gonna try to translate your experiences into german.

An die Webmaster:
kann man nicht zusätzlich ein internationales Forum einrichten?
Es gäbe bestimmt auch viel Zuwachs aus allen möglichen Ländern...

-yaKOS
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post May 15 2003, 15:57
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QUOTE(yaKOS @ May 15 2003, 11:14)
An die Webmaster:
kann man nicht zusätzlich ein internationales Forum einrichten?
Es gäbe bestimmt auch viel Zuwachs aus allen möglichen Ländern...

Genau das habe ich mir auch gerade gedacht, nur wohin damit?
Ich werde schon was finden.

Topic moved to "International" Forum


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post May 25 2003, 09:24
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Go to this link for a full Q and A on Salvia divinorum extractions and refinement of Salvinorin:

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.p...sb=5&o=&fpart=1

Der Beitrag wurde bearbeitet von Sphere am Feb 14 2005, 08:55 Uhr.
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post May 25 2003, 20:43
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Sphere, how much leaves did you use to produce that amount of salvinorin A crystals?
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post May 25 2003, 21:23
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I usually extract from no less than 100 grams at a time. The amount shown in the photograph isn't really that much because it was magnified 10X

Der Beitrag wurde bearbeitet von Sphere am Jul 24 2004, 01:37 Uhr.
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post May 29 2003, 11:18
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Post replaced (above) with information on how to grow salvinorin crystals.

Der Beitrag wurde bearbeitet von Sphere am Feb 14 2005, 09:02 Uhr.
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post Jun 19 2003, 07:40
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Here is another photograph of Salvinorin crystals. The brown colored material beneith are sediments.
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post Jun 19 2003, 18:42
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FRAGE: Warum übersetzt das keiner in Deutsch würds auch gern lesen !
kann nemlich kein Enlisch mad.gif würd mich sehr freuen wenn sich nicht nur für mich auch für andere SD-user die kein Enlisch können die Arbeit machen würde das zu übersetzen.....danke
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