Salvia Divinorum Tincture. How To Make Your Own. @ SALVIA-COMMUNITY.net
 

 
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> Salvia Divinorum Tincture. How To Make Your Own., Tincture as good as you can buy.

post Dec 7 2003, 04:32
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Crystal Grower


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Edited: Version 2.1 Aug 2004.

September 01, 2004: I have not edited this article yet, but I have begun recommending people increase the amount of time for salvinorin particles to settle in either water, Naphtha or Isopropanol Alcohol to at least an hour for each washing of the extract with these fluids and up to three hours or more during the final washes of the extract with Isopropanol to wait for all cloudiness of the fluid to settle out before pouring off or removing the fluid. Also, recent findings that salvinorin is actually coated on the outside of the leaf instead of inside there is no reason to completely powder the leaf prior to extraction.



This extraction Tek has been written with far more information than is needed to make your own tincture so that the reader will understand the reasons why certain techniques are used and how they work with enough additional information to be able to understand how to isolate and refine Salvinorin for other purposes too. I'm not a chemist and have no experience in organics other than Salvia Divinorum extractions so all I have to offer is practical experience which is hard to come by and difficult to find mention of on the net along with a few tricks that I have learned on my own.

If you have 100 grams of dried Salvia divinorum leaf you can make four to five ounces of strong tincture, here's how:

Only use 99% Isopropanol for this extraction method, not 70% or even 84% which are commonly found on store shelves because with more than 1% water in the extraction solvent the efficiency begins to drop off requiring far more time to extract the leaf and leaving too much of the Salvinorin behind. You might have to search longer to find 99% Isopropanol (from here forward sometimes referred to as IPA) but it can sometimes be found on the shelves of a few grocery stores right next to the more common 70%. This method requires either hand crushing the dried leaf into very small pieces or powdering the leaf through the use of a small electric coffee grinder. You can do so, but I no longer believe that it is necessary to finely powder the leaf to a completely flour-like consistency to obtain a high extraction efficiency because recent findings by Daniel Siebert have shown that the majority of the active component named Salvinorin actually coats the outside of the leaf and doesn't require the leaf to be finely crushed or powdered to efficiently extract it. However, I still recommend either hand crushing the leaf into very small pieces or powdering because when the volume is reduced far less solvent is needed to completely cover the leaf. In addition to this I believe fine crushed or powdered leaf also allows other organic compounds to be more efficiently extracted which somehow helps increase the sublingual absorption of Salvinorin. I myself and others have tried making tincture using only 98% pure Salvinorin alone without any of the other compounds from the leaf in high proof Ethanol Alcohol have found tincture made that way to be nearly inactive. There are methods of increasing sublingual absorption of Salvinorin in tincture by adding small amounts of Menthol and Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) or even Sal-A tincture made from a ratio of half 70% DMSO to half 151 proof Alcohol, but I have never tried adding any of these to my own as it works very well without them. Perhaps they are required if using high purity Salvinorin alone without other compounds contained in the Chlorophyll from the leaf but this isn't something I have tried.

Making Tincture:

Whether making tincture or extracting leaf for other purposes I have found that a quart sized mayonnaise jar is perfect for a 100 gram extraction of finely crushed or powdered leaf when using Isopropanol because it can be sealed and then shaken, but you can use an open pot of some kind just as well as long is the leaf is vigorously stirred. After the Salvia leaf has been either finely crushed by hand or ground to a fine consistency using a coffee grinder pour it all into a large enough container so that when adding solvent there is enough room for a ratio of leaf to solvent of no greater than 1/4 leaf to 3/4 Isopropanol, put the lid on it and shake (or briskly stir) for at least five minutes. You can have more solvent but don't use less because the solubility of Salvinorin to IPA is fairly low at less than one milligram per ml of IPA requiring a fair amount of solvent. Also, having extra solvent allows better agitation and flow of leaf particles in the extraction fluid while shaking or stirring. After five minutes of shaking you will need to set the container aside for the leaf to settle. It might take ten minutes for all of the particles to settle back to the bottom of the container, depending upon how finely you might have powdered the leaf. Once settled you can then pour the solvent off into your collection container taking care not to allow any of the leaf particles to pour it with it. A fine mesh stainless steel cooking splatter screen is helpful when pouring the solvent off to catch most of the leaf particles that might accidentally come over. It pays to take your time to make sure none pours over with the solvent or you might need to remove them by hand later. After pouring off the last drop of solvent add more IPA back to the jar again extracting the same batch of leaf all over again. Do the shake/stir, settle and Isopropanol pour-off with the same batch of leaf three more times over for a total of four times. After four consecutive five or more minute extractions to powdered or crushed leaf you will have removed over 80% of the Salvinorin but you should wash the powdered leaf through at least twice more with fresh solvent to wash out as much of the old Salvinorin-containing solvent left behind in the wet leaf as reasonably possible. After you're done collecting all of the Isopropanol from the extractions and the additional washes with fresh solvent combine all of the solvent together into one container, put some kind of cover on it and let it sit for 8 hours or more in a relatively cool dark place. The reason for doing this is very important because although you may not be able to see it the green colored solvent will contain lots of fine tannin particles which aren't soluble to pure Isopropanol floating in the alcohol giving the fluid a slightly cloudy look which will be disappear after these particles have all settled. You might not believe they are there because this fluid will look relatively clear to you, but once they have settled you will see a big difference. The solvent will be either light or dark green colored depending upon how much solvent you used, using more making a lighter colored solvent, but once the tannin contaminates have settled out of the fluid the solvent it will be crisply translucent without any cloudiness at all. Salvinorin will never cloud solvent even at full saturation so if you ever have a solvent with Salvinorin in it and it appears at all cloudy it has ultra-fine tannin sediments which can take many hours of settling before you see any change. While waiting for the tannin sediment to fall out it is important that you put the green solvent in a dark place while waiting because ultra-violet light can interact with Salvinorin while in Alcohol and destroy a portion of your yield. Normal room lighting isn't nearly as harmful to the yield as direct sunlight, but should be avoided while waiting for tannin sediments to settle out of the fluid.

After you have given enough time for the bulk of the tannin sediments to fall out carefully handle the settling container very gently to keep from stirring the fine tannins up into the fluid again and slowly pour the liquid into another container leaving all of the sediments that have fallen to the bottom of the first container behind. You might want to leave the last ounce of the fluid behind as this is the most difficult to pour out without having tannins come with it. Although it really isn't necessary for home made tincture if you want to remove more of the tannin let the solvent poured into the new container sit for another eight hours or more to remove more sediment. I'm sure you will find more, there always is. After it settles again slowly pour the green Isopropanol off being careful to leave the brown or green colored powder in the bottom behind. Letting the sediment fall out for eight hours removes most of the sediment and tannins that will fall out of the alcohol, but letting it sit for a full 16 hours in a two step process will assure that almost all of the sediment has been removed. Although removing the sediment in two or more steps waiting eight to twelve hours or more hours between each pour will make the extract contain far less tannin contaminates I have found that some of the tannin will still remain in the fluid so you might get most of it, but you won't get all of it through just settling and pouring off the Alcohol. Regardless I prefer this method because of its simplicity without the need to do special filtering. I have tried both paper and cloth filtering of solvent after extractions and the fine tannin particles always seem to both clog up and get through the filter so in my opinion the best way to remove the fine sediment is just to let them settle out over time.

Once done removing most of the tannin sediments you can now evaporate ALL of the Isopropanol completely out. Just letting the Alcohol sit and evaporate naturally can take many days and even a week or more for large extractions. The fast way to evaporate the fluid is to pour all of your tannin free solvent into as large a flat glass or other container that you can find to increase the amount of fluid surface area and place it in a dark place with a fan next to it blowing air across the surface of the fluid with enough force to cause ripples on the surface of the Alcohol without causing droplets to take to the air. Because of both the increased surface area and using forced air to blow on the solvent I have been able to evaporate a full gallon of 99% Isopropanol in just 8 hours when using a large flat Pyrex baking pan, but don't evaporate Alcohol in a room with people or animals who would be subject to the vapors or in a garage with a furnace or gas water heater with pilot lights in them. Simple static sparks created by movement across a rug in a dry environment could also set your project on fire, so be aware of that too. There is some danger when using an electric fan in an enclosed area because the sparking within the motor could cause a fire or worse when the vapors accumulate too much. Perhaps fan evaporating the fluid outside over night and removing the container before sunrise may be your only solution for finding both a dark and fully ventilated area, if so you might want to put a small screen across the top of the container for the air to blow through to help keep bugs and small animals or pets out. You will probably find that the last ounce or two of fluid will take much longer to evaporate out, this is because although you used 99% IPA that last one percent is water and added to that condensation from rapid evaporation will have collected in the container too. If you find that the last of the fluid has no hint of Alcohol smell to it you can just pour that water off, being careful that none of the fine particles of extract pour out with the fluid. This water will usually have a slight yellow tint to it due to tannins dissolved into the water, so pouring it off will help remove more tannin which is a slightly acidic astringent that adds more harsh taste to the tincture which is harsh enough tasting without it, so I always try to get as much of it out as possible. If the extract is slightly wet with water you can dry the extract the rest of the way in an oven set to 120 degrees F., but be sure none of the Alcohol remains or you could have a fire! Once completely dry you can add 151 proof Everclear drinking Alcohol (or any other 151 proof drinking Alcohol if you don't mind the strange mix of taste of what ever liquor you might choose) by pouring the drinking Alcohol strait into the bowl and completely dissolving all of the black-looking waxy extract into the Ethanol Alcohol, but don't add any more drinking Alcohol than the amount of tincture can be made from what ever portion of leaf you extracted from because you don't want to evaporate it back down to get to the proper volume of fluid because the Alcohol will evaporate off first making a higher ratio of water to Alcohol and thus a weaker tincture.


Additional steps to make high quality tincture:

To make a better tasting tincture you can remove the majority of the sour tasting Chlorophyll compounds from the leaf (aka black wax) using pure Naphtha. At this point instead of adding drinking Alcohol to the dried extract as above pour in four or more ounces of clean Naphtha directly into the container scraping up and mixing all of the extract into this solvent and every bit of residue that you can get off of the sides of the evaporation container scraping every bit off the sides making it as clean as you can because the light colored residues which form on the sides contain a significant portion of the Salvinorin, in fact, these nearly wax free light green residues which form on the sides of the evaporation container are fairly pure Salvinorin deposited there as the solvent evaporated. If the Naphtha won't remove every bit of residue from the sides you will have to scrape the crusty residues off of the sides with a spoon or knife. Once all of the extract is in the bottom of the bowl you might have to work the clumps of extract for a few minutes to get them to break down into fine particles, but it isn't too difficult to get all of them out. After all of the clumps are dissolved by the Naphtha pour all of the extract (Naphtha and all along with all particles leaving a completely clean dish behind) into a tall narrow pint sized glass container and wait a half hour or more for the Salvinorin particles to fall to the bottom of the container. What you are doing with the Naphtha is dissolving the Chlorophyll into the fluid and leaving the Salvinorin behind as a solid. The reason this works with Naphtha is because Salvinorin isn't soluble to Naphtha but the Chlorophyll is. The first wash, depending upon how much Naphtha is used, will color the solvent very darkly with Chlorophyll making it difficult to see whether all of the fine Salvinorin particles have all fallen out so after the first wash waiting a half hour or more for the particles to settle to the bottom of the glass is very important and its better to wait longer if you cannot see them, even up to a hour or more. When pouring the first of the dark Naphtha off go very slowly holding the jar to enough light so that you an see if you start to pour any of the solids off and when done set the jar of Naphtha you removed aside and check it a few hours later to see if more settled out. After the first wash the solids will still appear a very dark green but will continue to lighten with each additional wash with Naphtha. One wash with Naphtha won't be enough to remove even half of the wax so you will have to continue pouring in more fresh Naphtha, shake or stir for about five minutes and then wait another half hour or more for the particles to settle to the bottom before pouring it off again. After a few washes like this the crude extract in the bottom of the container will become lighter and lighter colored as the Naphtha becomes more and more translucent. Once the extract is no longer a dark black color and lightens to a pine needle green you can stop washing with Naphtha wait another half hour or more and pour the Naphtha off of your extract to the last drop of fluid. At this point you are almost ready to add drinking Alcohol back to the extract but you must be sure that your extract has absolutely no hint of Naphtha remaining. One way of assuring this is after the extract has dried to the touch is to put it in an oven set at 120-150 degrees F. and let it bake for several hours.

There is one more step you can incorporate into the process to remove almost all of the tannin that might have come over. It isn't necessary but the purists among us will probably want to add this step. This step won't work with an extract unless most of the wax has been removed using Naphtha first because the Chlorophyll waxes won't let the water cut the extract until most of them are removed. Once all of the Naphtha has been completely evaporated out of your extract put the extract into a small glass and add a few ounces of room temperature water and stir it in. If the water takes on a yellow or brown tint you are dissolving tannin out of the extract. Pour the water off making sure that none of the Sal-A particles flow out with it and add more water and continue washing the extract until the water will no longer take on any more color and then completely dry your water wetted extract in an oven set at 120-150 degrees F. Although some individuals recommend cold water washing leaf prior to extraction to remove tannin I don't recommend it because the Salvinorin can be mechanically removed from the leaf and carried away when aggitated while in the water. Salvinorin itself isn't at all soluble to water but can be removed from the leaf that way.

Whether having done just a wash with Naphtha alone or having used the extra step of using water to remove more tannin the extract should have enough of the wax removed so that it is a nice pine green color and the texture a dry grainy substance that can be crushed with a spoon. If you skipped the water wash and have evaporated the Naphtha wetted extract inside a small shot glass or spice bowl you will find that after the Naphtha has all evaporated off there will be a thin dark crust of wax on top of the purer Salvinorin below. This crust won't appear after dong a water wash unless you completely dry the extract again and then mix in more Naphtha and let the Naphtha evaporate out while inside a small spice bowl or even better a shot glass. This dark crust is normal and is something you want to remain in the extract. This layer is usually so thin that it is about the thickness of a piece of photocopy paper when completely dry. If you were just after fairly pure Salvinorin alone you could peal off that top layer and perhaps continue washing with more Naphtha and let dry again to peel off what ever might form on top again leaving an even purer extract but the remaining Chlorophyll impurities are desirable so do not remove them they are needed in the tincture because this compound from the leaf somehow helps the absorption of Salvinorin. If you are intending on using either store bought or hardware Naphtha to remove Chlorophyll from your extract be forewarned that camp stove Naphtha almost always contains oil as a rust inhibitor and Ronsonol lighter fluid Naphtha contains close to 30 parts per million Benzene, so neither of those choices would be suitable for commercial made products and in my opinion poor choices for home made tincture. Although in my opinion because you can both pour the Naphtha off and then evaporate the rest of it out of your extract the amount of Benzene remaining will be so small as to be less than the amount found in a single cigarette, even so, Benzene isn't something you want in your body. Perhaps once completely dry the minute amount of Benzene will have evaporated anyway, but I am not a chemist and have no way of knowing for sure.

Before adding the Salvinorin powder to Alcohol you should finely crush the extract as finely as you can so that it will dissolve easier. I have found that a bowl and spoon work well enough for this using the spoon I have been able to crush the extract into a fine powder which dissolves fairly easily into Alcohol. When crushing the dried extract the top layer of wax should thoroughly mix in with the Salvinorin to such extent that you no longer see any black in the powder at all, just green powder it can then be dissolved into drinking alcohol to make tincture. Be sure to use enough Alcohol for the amount of extract, but not too much or it will be too weak. The extract from 100 grams of dried leaf should make no less than 4 ounces of tincture. If all of the powder won't dissolve into your Alcohol keep adding small amounts of Alcohol until it will (as long as it isn't tannin which will never dissolve into the). If you add too much crude Salvinorin for the amount of Alcohol it can dissolve into you will always have Salvinorin settling into the bottom of your tincture bottle. Be careful if this has happened because you can get too much very easily. If you only have a small amount settling out in the bottom of the kind of tincture bottle which uses a dropper you can just leave it in the bottle but its a good idea to shake your bottle of tincture before using it to make sure you do not suck up pure Salvinorin if using an eye dropper to dose with. A point of interest regarding pure Salvinorin alone is that without Alcohol and the other Chlorophyll containing compounds from the leaf Sal-A is orally inactive. I have tried taking pure Salvinorin sublinugally and worked all the way up to as much as 25 mg of 99% pure Salvinorin several times sublingually without Alcohol and it didn't give any effect at all. I tried adding a few ml of 151 proof Alcohol with powdered salvinorin together under my tongue and it was still inactive. It appears that the Sal-A needs to be completely dissolved Alcohol and or combined with Chlorophyll compounds from the leaf or it is poorly absorbed, either that or the compounds will allow Salvinorin to more fully dissolve in Alcohol. Apparently, pure Salvinorin is nearly inert for effect unless completely dissolved into Alcohol or smoked which pleases me because it makes this compound safe to work with.

The following is a picture of dried Naphtha cleaned extract showing the dark top layer of crusty Chlorophylls and the pine needle green Salvinorin below. This extract will be ready for dissolving into drinking Alcohol after scraping every bit of dark extract off the sides of the bowl and then crushing all of the extract with a spoon into a green powder. Several pieces of extract were turned over to show the lighter colored undersides.

Bild: http://www.entheogen.com/gallery/albums/userpics/normal_Naphtha%20Cleaned%20Extract%7E0.jpeg

Notes

If you have extracted from 100g of leaf that contains about 2.5+ mg of Salvinorin per gram of leaf, you should be able to make at least four ounces of strong tincture that contains close to 1.5 mg of Salvinorin per ml of alcohol. This is higher than most commercial tinctures. I have made tincture using 151 Proof Alcohol and found it to be very effective but if possible use 191 proof Alcohol over 151 Proof because the higher the proof the Alcohol the more effective the tincture because Alcohol with contain less water can hold more Salvinorin per ml of fluid because pure Salvinorin is completely insoluble to water. Also, you don't want to use pure Salvinorin and Alcohol alone for tincture because from what I have found the dark chlorophylls from the leaf makes tincture far more effective than without it by somehow increasing sublingual absorption of Salvinorin. Salvia divinorum tincture made the easy way without removing additional Chlorophyll does not need nearly as much of the chlorophyll or black wax that will be in it when having used a gross extraction method and will have a much stronger taste than the kind you might buy from most vendors, but will be very potent and should work very well. If you want to use the extra step of removing the dark waxes with Naphtha it won't be any more effective, but won't have as strong a taste.

Do not use 70% Isopropanol for this method because it will not efficiently extract Salvinorin. Another common IPA is 94% which might work for this quick extraction method or even 191 proof Everclear drinking Alcohol (Ethanol) but I have not tried using it myself. I will not use 70% Isopropanol because it has far too much water in it, slowing down the efficiency of the alcohol which requires a much longer soaking to extract out the Salvinorin. Also, the added water with 70% IPA increases the amount of tannin extracted because it is extremely soluble in water, but not soluble in pure Alcohol (or Acetone). An extraction of powdered leaf using 151 proof alcohol -- which is close to 25% water -- might work, if you let it soak in the dark for a up to a week. You can certainly 151 proof Everclear drinking Alcohol for extracting Salvia Divinorum leaf instead of Isopropanol if you soak the leaf long enough. However, I have not tried 191 Proof because it is illegal where I live. 191 Proof Ethanol might not be suitable for this quick extraction method because it has close to 5% water in it. Keep in mind tannin is very soluble to water and this means more tannin will remain in your solvent due to the higher water content of lower proof alcohols and won't fall out of the fluid no matter how long you wait. I have seen how inefficient 70% Isopropanol works for this quick method and how much tannin that it extracts out of the leaf when trying to do an hour long extraction to powdered leaf and it was very poor, hardly any Salvinorin was extracted but loads of tannin was. Because of this I have since sworn off Alcohol that contain more than 1% water when I don't know how well 95% alcohol might work for a quick extraction so it might be worth a try using this quick extraction method, but I don't recommend it if you can use 99% IPA or reagent grade Acetone instead.

If you shake your jar of powdered leaf and Isopropanol for a total of four times for at least five minutes (between letting the leaf settle out) with fresh washes of 99% Isopropanol each time for a total of 20 minutes or more of shaking,you can probably get somewhere around 80+% of the Salvinorin that can be easily extracted from the leaf without waiting days. If you extend the time your leaf is soaked in 99% Isopropanol to three days, shake it for at least ten minutes once a day, and collect the solvent each day, this should get close to 90-95% of the Salvinorin that can be extracted out of the leaf using this method, as long as you wash the leaf through with fresh Isopropanol one more time each time you pour the solvent off. This will help wash more of the Salvinorin out of the wet powder before closing the jar for the next 24 hour soaking. The multi-day soak and shake method is very efficient and helps get most of the remaining Salvinorin out of the leaf. The last 10-20% of Salvinorin takes a long time to get out because of the ever diminishing returns for your efforts after the first two or three shake-and-washes that will remove the bulk of the Salvinorin. Save your solvent from each day's extraction in a jar and after 24 hours carefully pour it off into another collection container, leaving the sediment that falls out each day behind.

A reliable and efficient way to extract dried Salvia divinorum leaf is by extracting the same leaf for a few minutes several times over with fresh solvent each time because solvents with fairly low solubility to Salvinorin can then be used to extract the leaf and when re-extracting the same leaf over removes more and more of the Salvinorin latent solvent which would otherwise be left behind in the wet leaf. Extractions to Salvia Divinorum leaf can be done with many different solvents, three of the commonly used ones are Acetone, Isopropanol, and Ethanol (drinking Alcohol). These solvents have different saturation points for Salvinorin or in other words will only hold so much Salvinorin per ml of fluid. Of these three Acetone is the with a saturation point of over 20 milligrams Salvinorin per milliliter at room temperature which is higher than any other and so well suited for extracting Salvinorin that it can quickly and easily remove almost all of the Salvinorin from Salvia Divinorum leaf in just a few minutes even if chilled which is a great way of minimizing the amount of Chlorophyll extracted. Because of the extremely high solubility of Salvinorin to Acetone a quick extraction to Salvia leaf for only three minutes at room temperature will remove most of the Salvinorin in one extraction (except for what is left behind in the solvent remaining in wet leaf). Also Acetone can be used to extract Salviniorin from leaf when chilled low fairly low temperatures and still efficiently extract the leaf which is something that the other two solvents cannot do. When chilling Acetone to anywhere between zero to +20 degrees F. it can extract almost all of the Salvinorin from leaf from while leaving the bulk of the Chlorophyll and other compounds in the leaf behind. When working with chilled Acetone it is important to chill both the leaf and the extraction container along with the solvent together when working with them at room temperature because at room temperature I have found that the solvent can warm up to nearly 40 degrees F. in just ten minutes if you do not pre-chill your containers and leaf too. 40 degrees F. solvent is still cold enough to leave most of the Chlorophylls behind but keeping the solvent below 30 degrees F. will make a cleaner extract. Chilled Acetone is a great technique to obtain relatively high purity Salvinorin extractions with far less Chlorophyll than you would get when using room temperature solvents and is very effective regardless if the leaf is finely powdered or whole but it is just as important to extract the leaf three times over for at least three minutes each time to remove residuals.

I no longer go to the trouble of using chilled Acetone because I have found other ways of removing Chlorophyll impurities which are far less expensive than buying reagent or technical grade Acetone. Some individuals buy hardware store Acetone for these extractions if they can find a brand which evaporates completely clean without hint of oily residues but if your going to use Acetone I only recommend guaranteed purity technical grade Acetone for these extractions. Acetone is the fastest extractor of all the solvents whether chilled or at room temperature for Salvinorin that I have been able to find but other solvents work very well too, you just have to extract the leaf longer and use more solvent. The solvent I use for room temperature extractions now is 99% Isopropanol which has a relatively low saturation point of only .74 mg Salvinorin per milliliter of fluid. Solubility of Salvinorin to Isopropanol may be low, but if you extract the leaf longer and use more of the solvent it will do the job fairly well at far less expense and is easier to find than reagent grade Acetone which if ordered and shipped via air requires next day air shipping due to being a flammable. High proof 98% Ethanol is another good choice for extracting Salvinorin and has twice the solubility of 99% Isopropanol able to hold close to 1.5 mg per milliliter of fluid but due to taxes and being food grade is relatively expensive compared to 99% medical grade IPA. Although Isopropanol isn’t food grade it is medical grade and will completely evaporate without leaving any hint of contaminates so for me from the standpoint of economics of being both cheap and available strait off the store shelf in most areas of the United States makes it my solvent of choice for Salvia Divinorum extractions even if it does take longer than Acetone to extract leaf.

High proof alcohol tincture cannot hold very much Salvinorin, only about 1.5 or so mg per ml of fluid when at room temperature. People who make Salvia divinorum tinctures don't want the Salvinorin to crystallize out of the fluid so they don't load it up to the maximum it can hold because a temperature drop of just 20 degrees could cause some of the Salvinorin to fall out as a solid. Most commercial tinctures are made to contain about 1.35 mg per ml of fluid, I assume to keep the Salvinorin from falling out as a solid with if cooled to lower than room temperature but freezing tincture will probably cause the Sal-A to precipitate out anyway because solvents have a lower solubility to Salvinorin when chilled and a higher solubility when heated which can be used to purposely cause Salvinorin to solidify into crystaline structures when hot solvent loaded with more Salvinorin than it can hold at room temperature and then cooling. For Salvia tincture you need to use as high proof alcohol as possible and you do not want to use pure Salvinorin with alcohol alone because the compounds in the green chlorophyll from Salvia leaf aid sublingual absorption. Also, it has been reported to me that the dark chlorophyll compounds in the tincture will allow pure alcohol to hold more Salvinorin per ml of fluid. If true, I do not know the best ratio or the amount of Chlorophyll needed to take best advantage of this but this effect may only occur with Alcohol that has very little water in it. Drinking Alcohol that is close to 98 percent would be the best thing to use for making tincture but somewhat difficult to come by. Tincture using extremely high proof 98% alcohol is more effective than tincture made from 191 Proof (which is only 5% water) but 191 Proof should be a very close second. Tinctures with made with 151 proof alcohol are 25% water and due to this will burn your mouth less than higher proof tinctures but cannot hold as much Salvinorin and is less potent on a ml basis compared to tinctures containing very little water which can hold larger amounts of Salvinorin per ml of fluid.

98% Ethanol drinking Alcohol is expensive compared to 99% IPA or even 191 proof Everclear Alcohol but could be used for this quick extraction process from beginning to final product making it food grade all the way. Also, there is a way of removing Chlorophyll without using any Naphtha at all by using the same solvent that is used for extracting the leaf. One thing to keep in mind is that either of these two can easily remove so much of the Chlorophyll from your extract that you won’t have enough left to make an effective tincture so do not wash your extract so much that it becomes too light colored, stop washing as soon as the extract becomes a pine needle green. This is done by using small amounts of either 99% IPA or 98% Ethanol drinking Alcohol to wash the wax out of the extract, but when using either of these two solvents in which Salvinorin can be dissolved into and thus a portion of your yield carried away with each wash I recommend using a glass container no larger than 50 ml and using no more than 25 ml of 99% IPA or 98% Ethanol per. Fortunately Salvinorin is only weakly soluble to small amounts of 99% Isopropanol but the Chlorophyll waxes are extremely soluble to small amounts of IPA which through repeated washings of Salvinorin allows you to remove all of the Chlorophyll from your extract while leaving the bulk of the Salvinorin behind but only if your very conservative with the amount of IPA using as little as reasonably possible for each wash to minimize the Salvinorin losses. If using 98% Ethanol instead of IPA to remove Chlorophylls your losses will be at least twice as much because Salvinorin is roughly twice as soluble to Ethanol which by the way makes make it a better extraction solvent too, but only if it contains very little water. Of course the larger the amount of leaf extracted the more IPA can be used in each wash of the extract to remove waxes and the smaller the extraction the less you can use without having dissolved too high an amount of the Sal-A you have extracted. For example, if you extract from a single ounce of dried leaf using a 50 ml glass vial and 25 ml of 99% for each wash to remove Chlorophylls will cause most of the Sal-A to be carried away because you would be using far too much IPA. If having extracted only an ounce of leaf use no more than 7 to 10 ml per wash of the extract or say good bye to having much Sal-A left in the glass when done. As I said above, if using 98% Ethanol or drinking Alcohol to remove waxes this Alcohol will carry away more Salvinorin than if using 99% IPA but when using only Ethanol drinking Alcohol to both extract your leaf and remove Chlorophylls this is one way of producing a tincture that is food grade from beginning to end. Due to the losses I only recommend using Salvinorin soluble solvents to completely remove Chlorophylls when having done very large extractions of a pound or more of dried leaf at a time. You can save the Salvinorin containing solvent used to remove the wax so your not really loosing Salvinorin, but to end up with very light to white colored pure Sal-A (which isn't what you want for making tincture) you will loose at least 25% of your yield when refining it that far using Isopropanol and that's if you have had lots of practice taking great care to minimize the losses using as little solvent as possible.

Be careful when handling wet leaf or extract and don't touch your face or rub your nose while working with leaf or you will likely end up with dry patches of skin on your face which will persist for several days. Tannin is an acidic astringent so don't rub your eyes lids while extract residues are on your fingers or it can cause swelling which can last for three or more days! Never touch your face or other sensitive skin areas while working with wet leaf or extract and always wash your hands after your done. I have never had a problem with the skin on my hands when handling leaf soaked in solvents, but the skin on my face is far more sensitive.

For 100 grams of leaf you might end up using three 477 ml bottles of Isopropanol for this You should be able to do it with only two small 477 ml bottles but using more Isopropanol than is required won't hurt, it can only help. The success or failure of tincture made this way depends on how good your leaf is, whether you use 99% Isopropanol, use enough of it, shake it long enough, and wash it through enough. If any one of these steps are not done quite right it won't produce as good an extract. You cannot over soak your leaf in 99% Isopropanol and can use more Isopropanol than outlined, but the more alcohol you use the longer it will take to evaporate.

If you choose to use Acetone instead of Isopropanol do everything the same way as above. Acetone is faster removing Salvinorin from leaf but use the same amount of time extracting the leaf just to be thorough, it isn't that much longer. One thing to keep in mind if using Acetone is that it can melt plastic or rubber seals so using something like a canning jar with rubber seal or Mayo jar won't work with Acetone, you have to find something else, perhaps a shiney new quart sized paint can from a paint store would be best when using Acetone sealing it up tight each time you extract the leaf, but be sure to wash the can out with Acetone first in case there is some kind of residual inside the can.

Salvinorin crystals:

This is fairly dangerous as the Naphtha vapors could ignite and certainly would if using a gas oven, however I have done this several times and never had a problem when only an ounce of Naphtha was being evaporated off that way. Your results may vary!

Salvinorin crystals can be obtained by washing the dried extract from a 99% Isopropanol extraction in pure Naphtha until the fluid becomes a very light translucent green color. Wash the extract until its obvious that the Naphtha becomes ineffective removing additional Chlorophyll and then pour all of Naphtha out of the container and put all of the extract into a small two inch diameter spice bowl and then pour in enough fresh Naphtha so that the extract has about a half inch of Naphtha on top, thoroughly stir the extract into the solvent with a spoon and then place the bowl in an electric oven set to about 120 degrees F. with its door cracked open. Keep the small bowl of Naphtha as far away from the heating elements as possible because there is potential for fire. When using this technique by leaving the bowl undisturbed while the Naphtha evaporates off will cause the heavier Salvinorin crystals will all fall to the bottom of the glass while the Chlorophyll wax forms an upper crust. Once completely dry you can freeze the bowl of extract to cause the top layer of wax to stiffen up and when peeling the stiff wax off the top and have nothing but golden colored to light green high purity micro-size crystals remaining in the bottom of your glass. They might not seem like crystals unless seen under magnification, but they are. You won't see any hint of crystalline structure with the naked eye after using Isopropanol to remove Chlorophyll because the IPA will dissolve all of them into far smaller structures that are even more difficult to see with the naked eye. I have only mentioned this technique for those who might have a need for crystals, but keep in mind that they should never be used as a drug because they are far too potent. See http://www.sagewisdom.org/caution.html


Here is a photo guide on how to extraction Salvinorin using 99% Isopropanol. The Naphtha and Isopropanol washes shown in this guide are to remove most of the black wax so the Salvinorin can be used to make enhanced leaf. If your making tincture, only do Naphtha washes and no more. Do not continue washing with small amounts of Isopropanol as this will certainly remove too many of the waxes for an effective tincture and can cause large amounts of Salvinorin to be lost with each wash when using Isopropanol to remove chlorophyll.

http://www.erowid.org/plants/salvia/salvia...traction4.shtml

Der Beitrag wurde bearbeitet von Sphere am Jan 1 2006, 16:24 Uhr.
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post Dec 7 2003, 04:37
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Crystal Grower


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Der Beitrag wurde bearbeitet von Sphere am Jul 17 2004, 09:17 Uhr.
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post Dec 7 2003, 17:25
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Salvia Meister
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Just read your mail, sphere smile.gif

Seems like I'm too late!
Anyway, thx for that great posting!

Greetings
SiRiuS
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post Dec 7 2003, 21:30
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Salvia Kenner
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Is there a german version of this text?
I'm not realy interrested in reading it in english^^
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post Dec 8 2003, 05:12
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Crystal Grower


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Article expanded and reposted July 16 2004

Der Beitrag wurde bearbeitet von Sphere am Jul 17 2004, 09:16 Uhr.
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post Dec 8 2003, 19:40
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Salvia Meister
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Ok it is out now smile.gif
There will be a German translation by Salviapsycho and me. But until then, it might be a few weeks.

Greetz
SiR

Der Beitrag wurde bearbeitet von SiRiuS am Dec 8 2003, 21:09 Uhr.
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